Costa Brava Guide

Once the oldest town in Catalonia (Rhode), Roses is a living museum mapped out by the traces of the passing ages, and as a privileged place that was lodged deeply in the affections of the many cultures who once inhabited its past. Adorned by a wide and varied range of artistic and historical monuments, it lies at rest sustained by the perfect scenic and geometric setting of the bay, a perfectly sheltered spot to enjoy the sandy beaches: Plain set against the rocky outcropping of Cape Creus.

Still in the fifties a fishing village, Roses experienced the tourism boom of the following years the strongest, compared to all other resorts of the northern Costa Brava. Today Roses still has an important fishing fleet; its most important commercial activity however is the tourism. Roses was founded by Greek mariners from Rhodes, who named it after their home. Roses was fortified in the 16th century by the Emperor Charles V as a bastion against the Turks. The nearby fort of La Trinitat was the object of a fierce attack by the French during the Peninsular War. For cool and insolent daring its defense by the British naval commander, Lord Cochrane, was one of the outstanding combined operations of the war. When the French launched an all out attack on November 30, 1808, with some 1,200 men they were ingeniously repulsed with heavy losses by a handful of sailors.

Nonetheless the citadel was eventually blown up by Suchet in 1814. Other good examples of Roses long history are the monastery Santa Maria de Roses and the Dolmen Creu d'en Cobertella. Outside the tourist season Roses has about 15.000 permanent inhabitants, amongst them many foreigners who are either self employed or have chosen Roses as their retirement home. Many restaurants, hotels and other businesses are opened all the year. Especially popular and well frequented is the market on Sunday morning.

In summertime the number of inhabitants rises up to approximately 90.000. Who looks for peace, must literally search for it, but will find it nearby in the small bays towards Cap Creus, on trips through the countryside or visiting the small villages close to Roses. Who looks for more vacation excitement, is also well provided. The municipality and many private enterprises organize numerous fiestas, Jazz festivals, classical music and folkloristic events. In Roses always something is going on... Numerous restaurants compete for the tourists. Discotheques, small bars and Bodegas provide for an exciting night life.

Market on Sundays. Pastries at Mallol, Pi i Sunyer 4. Xarrich on Mossèn Carles Feliu 12 is a fancy fishmonger, specializing in prepared fish such as salted cod, salted anchovies, and the delicious boquerones (same fish as anchovy but prepared in vinegar). The Don Pancho cruise-boats go out from the harbor, and tour the Cap de Creus or go all the way down the Gulf of Roses to the Illes Medes. The first route is shorter and more spectacular. The Agua Brava aquatic park is a few km out of town, a little beyond the crossroads for Cadaques and Figueres. Across from the aquatic park is the best go-kart circuit on the coast, Karting Roses boasting a 900 m track. There are three scuba centers in Roses.
Can Ramon at Sant Elm 8 is a economical and popular restaurant with a relaxed family atmosphere. Bullabesa, suquet, oven-baked fish, fried seafood, wild game, etc.

The New York Times "Dining Out" section (Sept. 15,1999) says of restaurant Hacienda El Bulli (972 15 04 57) "Some say it is the best restaurant in Europe, possibly the world." It is one of two Spanish restaurant which has consistently earned top three-star rating in the Bible of Gastronomy, the Guide Michelin (the other one is Arzak in San Sebastian). Set on a remote cala several kms east of Roses on the Cape of Montjoi, the restaurant is best reached by yacht -or, if you travel like the President or King of Spain..., by helicopter.

The road out towards the Cape is rough going, and don't expect to be able to continue to Cadaques unless you have a four-wheel drive. With spectacular sea views, El Bulli's famous young chef, Ferran Adria, 37, serves a highly creative mix of Catalan and international cuisine, and has an extensive wine cellar. Though the restaurant does offer a set menu for about €100. Shrimps with wild mushrooms, buckwheat blinis with smoked chicken and caviar, codfish empanadas with tamarind sauce, vinaigrette with pine nuts and sweet fresh onions, lobster gazpacho with basil, abalone and bacon with ginger root and a salad of coconut and apple, etc. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays except in summer, and from mid January to mid-March.

Recommended beaches: The road along the cape beyond Montjoi is in bad shape and serves to dissuade sun bathers from frequenting some of the areas best beaches. Perhaps the best of them is Cala de la Pelosa, 2 km beyond Montjoi on the dirt track, just before reaching the Cape of Norfeu. The cala is surrounded by pine and oak trees, and the rocky promentories hide protected species of Greek sea turtles and rapacious acquatic birds.

Roses Citadel - A walk around the Citadel is essential for anyone visiting Roses. Declared a historical-artistic complex in 1961, Roses Citadel contains vestiges of various periods and occupations. The military fortification, with its monumental Sea Gate, is a Renaissance-style enclosure of 131.480 m2 built in ...

Roses Megalithic Complex - Inhabited since remote times, Roses possesses one of the most complete and impressive megalithic itineraries of the Costa Brava. Three large dolmens conserve the memory of the area's first settlers: the Creu d'en Cobertella (3000-2700 BC), the Llit de la Generala (3200 BC) and the Cap de l'Home. ...

Trinity Castle - The Castell de la Trinitat (Trinity Castle) crowns the Poncella point above the lighthouse of Roses. This military construction, which dates from 1544, was erected under the reign of Emperor Charles V. It has the shape of a five-pointed star, with pronounced angular corners for defence against ...

Church of Santa Maria - The old church of Santa Maria was built in 1796, and from it the apse, transept and cupola are preserved. The rest of the nave, the side chapels and the facade are neo-classical works from the year 1853 by the architect Marti Sureda i ...

Mallol House - The Mallol House is a modernist building in Plaça de Catalunya. It was built in 1906 and designed by the architect Joan Mares. It is now the seat of Roses Council. The facade is notable for its gallery and various windows with small pillars and floral decorations in relief. Inside, there ...

Cap de Creus Natural Park - The Cap de Creus is the last outlet of the Catalunya Pyrenees and at the same time the most easterly point of the Iberian Peninsula on the map. That is one of the reasons why the Cap with its lighthouse is a particularly important point in the nautical charts. The Cap Creus since May 1998 ...