Ullastret: Ancient Iberian City & Medieval Village on Costa Brava

Standing on the hilltop ruins of Ullastret, looking out across the Empordà plain toward the distant shimmer of the Mediterranean, I found myself doing the same mental calculation that visitors have done for two and a half millennia. From here, you can see everything—approaching armies, trading ships, storm fronts rolling in from the sea. The Indigetes who built their capital on this spot knew exactly what they were doing.

Ullastret holds a distinction that surprises most visitors: this quiet village of 250 inhabitants contains the largest Iberian archaeological site ever discovered in Catalonia. Before the Romans arrived, before the Greeks established their trading colony at nearby Empúries, an indigenous civilization built a city here that rivaled anything in the ancient Mediterranean. At its peak, 6,000 people lived within these walls—more than twenty times the current population.

But Ullastret offers more than just archaeology. The medieval village that grew up centuries after the Iberians departed is itself a small marvel—stone streets, a Romanesque church, defensive towers, and walls that have protected this hilltop for a thousand years. Combined with its position at the heart of the Empordanet, the cluster of medieval villages that includes Peratallada, Pals, and Monells, Ullastret makes an ideal base for exploring a landscape where history seems to accumulate in visible layers.

The Iberians of Ullastret: A Lost Civilization

The people we call the Indigetes were not a single tribe but a confederation of four related groups who inhabited the regions of L'Empordà and La Selva—roughly the present-day province of Girona. Ancient writers including Ptolemy, Strabo, and Pliny the Elder mentioned them, though the Indigetes left no written records of their own. What they left instead was Ullastret.

The site actually comprises two fortified settlements—Puig de Sant Andreu and Illa d'en Reixac—positioned on adjacent hills overlooking what was once a lake. Together they cover more than 15 hectares, a vast urban center by the standards of Iron Age Iberia. The Indigetes began building here in the 6th century BC and continued expanding for nearly four hundred years.

What Made This Place Special

The Indigetes were traders. Their position between the indigenous peoples of the interior and the Greek colony at Empúries made them natural intermediaries. They exchanged agricultural products, livestock, and ores from local mines for Greek pottery, wine, and metalwork. The wealth that flowed through Ullastret funded the construction of 930 meters of fortress walls, seven defensive towers, two temples with columns, and hundreds of homes. More than 200 storage pits carved into the bedrock held grain surpluses that could feed thousands.

Three cisterns collected rainwater for drinking—a feat of engineering that kept the city supplied even during sieges. The Indigetes understood that controlling water meant controlling everything.

The End of Indikete Independence

In 195 BC, the Roman consul Marcus Porcius Cato landed in Iberia to deal with rebellious indigenous tribes. The Indigetes, who had initially sided with Carthage during the Punic Wars, found themselves on the wrong side of history. Cato was not a subtle man. He condemned Ullastret to abandonment, forcing its inhabitants to leave their four-hundred-year-old city.

What happened next is one of archaeology's great gifts: the city was simply left. No subsequent settlement built over the Iberian remains, no stone-robbing villagers dismantled the walls for their own purposes. The site lay largely undisturbed until systematic excavations began in the 20th century, preserving a snapshot of Iberian civilization that exists nowhere else.

Visiting the Archaeological Site

The Poblat Ibèric d'Ullastret is managed by the Archaeological Museum of Catalonia (MAC), one of five sites under their umbrella that also includes the Greco-Roman city of Empúries. The combination makes for an extraordinary day of ancient history—you can literally trace the progression from indigenous Iberian to Greek colonial to Roman imperial civilization within a few kilometers.

What You'll See

The site occupies the hill of Puig de Sant Andreu, with a museum built over the remains of an 8th-century Carolingian castle that itself incorporated a medieval church dedicated to Saint Andrew. This layering is typical of Ullastret—history piled on history.

Walking the site, you'll encounter the massive defensive walls first. Even in ruins, they convey the engineering sophistication of their builders. Seven towers punctuate the perimeter, positioned to provide overlapping fields of fire. Inside, the street grid reveals a planned city rather than an organic settlement. The remains of two temples, complete with column bases, suggest a religious life we can only guess at. The storage pits, visible as circular depressions in the rock, hint at the agricultural wealth that sustained the population.

The museum houses artifacts recovered from decades of excavation: pottery (both locally made and Greek imports), weapons, jewelry, and household items. A small immersion room, added in 2016, uses audiovisual technology to reconstruct the ancient town, helping visitors picture what these stones once supported.

Practical Information

Opening Hours:

• Summer (June 1 - September 30): Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 - 20:00
• Winter (October 1 - May 31): Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 - 18:00
• Closed Mondays year-round, plus January 1 and 6, December 25 and 26
• December 24 and 31: Open until 14:30 only
• Easter Week follows summer schedule

Admission: €4 general admission, which includes the archaeological site, museum, and audio guide (accessed via QR code on your mobile phone). Free entry for visitors with disability certificates.

Facilities: Free parking with 50 car spaces and 4 bus spaces. The site involves uneven terrain and exposed hilltop conditions—wear sturdy shoes and bring sun protection in summer.

The Medieval Village

The Iberians weren't the only ones who recognized this hilltop's strategic value. Centuries after Cato's destruction, medieval settlers built their own fortified village here. What they created remains almost entirely intact—one of the best-preserved medieval villages in the Empordà.

Exploring the Old Town

Ullastret's medieval core is encircled by three distinct lines of defensive walls, with ten towers still standing. Enter through one of the old gates and you're immediately in a world of narrow stone streets, steep stairs, and Gothic arches. The layout hasn't changed in five hundred years.

The streets converge on a central esplanade, thought to be the site of a former castle enclosure. Around it cluster Gothic and Renaissance buildings, their stone facades weathered to warm honey tones. Look for the porticoed Gothic square known as La Llotja, where the medieval market once operated—the arches still shelter shoppers from summer sun and winter rain, just as they did six centuries ago.

At the highest point stands the Church of Sant Pere, documented as early as 899 AD though the current structure dates primarily from the 11th century. It's a classic Romanesque basilica with three naves and three apses, modified over centuries but still fundamentally medieval. The views from the churchyard extend across the Empordà plain to the Montgrí Massif and, on clear days, the Mediterranean.

The Lost Lake of Ullastret

Between the villages of Llabià and Ullastret once lay a lake—the Estany d'Ullastret—fed by the waters of the Daró River. This lake explains why the Iberians chose this location: the two settlements of Puig de Sant Andreu and Illa d'en Reixac stood on its shores, controlling both the water supply and the trade routes that crossed it.

The lake was drained between the late 18th and 19th centuries through a canal system, converting the lakebed into agricultural fields. Today you can walk circular routes across the former lake plain, imagining the water that once reflected these same hilltop silhouettes. From the peak of Creu de l'Estany, views extend to the Montgrí Massif and across the Empordanet. It's a landscape that rewards those who understand what they're looking at.

Exploring the Medieval Villages of Empordanet

Ullastret sits at the heart of a cluster of medieval villages that collectively form one of the most historically significant regions in Catalonia. The Empordanet—the area between the Montgrí Massif, the Gavarres hills, and the Mediterranean—contains villages that have changed remarkably little since the Middle Ages.

Peratallada

Just 5 kilometers from Ullastret, Peratallada is the crown jewel of Empordà medieval villages. Its name means "carved stone" in Catalan, and the description is literal—the entire village is built from and into the bedrock. Named one of Spain's most beautiful medieval towns by National Geographic in 2023, Peratallada centers on the Plaça de Les Voltes, a square surrounded by medieval arches where restaurants now set their tables beneath 800-year-old stonework.

The castle, the church, the defensive towers—all seem to grow organically from the rock itself. Allow at least two hours to wander the streets, stopping for coffee in one of the squares or browsing the small galleries that have colonized medieval storefronts.

Pals

Perched on a hilltop overlooking the Mediterranean and the rice fields that bear its name, Pals dates to at least the 7th century. The Gothic quarter, with its round defense tower, cobblestone streets, and stone houses, offers one of the most photogenic medieval ensembles on the Costa Brava.

Pals is also the center of a unique agricultural tradition: rice cultivation. The wetlands surrounding the village produce a particular rice grain that forms the basis of Costa Brava's signature dish, arròs a la cassola. Any restaurant here will serve it, and you should order it.

Monells

Monells contains what many consider the most beautiful porticoed square in Catalonia—the Plaça del Mercat, ringed by medieval arches. The village gained unexpected fame as a filming location for the Spanish comedy "Ocho apellidos catalanes," but its charms far predate its movie appearance. This is a place to sit in the square, order a glass of local wine, and watch the afternoon light move across ancient stones.

Palau-sator

The smallest of the Empordanet villages, Palau-sator maintains its medieval layout almost entirely intact. The town walls still encircle the core, and a defensive tower rises above houses that haven't changed in centuries. It's the kind of place you can walk through in twenty minutes—or linger for hours, depending on your appetite for quiet contemplation.

La Bisbal d'Empordà

Five kilometers from Ullastret, La Bisbal has been a pottery center for centuries. The red clay (argila) found here produces distinctive ceramics—typically decorated in red, yellow, blue, and green with a glazed finish. Since 2010, "Ceràmica de la Bisbal" has held EU protected designation.

The greatest concentration of pottery shops lines Carrer Aigüeta, and the Terracotta Museum, housed in a former ceramics factory, traces the history of this craft. Even if you're not in the market for pottery, browsing the workshops and galleries offers insight into a living tradition.

Where to Eat

Ullastret is a small village, but the surrounding Empordanet offers excellent dining options. The regional cuisine emphasizes fresh local ingredients, rice dishes from Pals, and Mediterranean seafood from the nearby coast.

In Ullastret

Can Quel occupies a charming space in the village center, serving high-quality homemade Catalan cooking. The menu emphasizes traditional dishes prepared with local ingredients—try the snails, the oven-roasted duck, or finish with recuit, a fresh cheese typical of the region. A daily menu offers good value, and the terrace is perfect for sunny days. This is village cooking at its best: unpretentious, generous, and rooted in place.

In Peratallada

La Cort occupies a 12th-century estate in the historic Plaça de Les Voltes. The setting—dining beneath medieval arches—matches cuisine that takes traditional Catalan cooking seriously. Not inexpensive, but the combination of food, atmosphere, and history justifies the splurge.

Hotel La Riera offers two terraces surrounded by olive trees, cypresses, and vines. The menu focuses on shared starters, rice dishes, pasta, and grilled specialties—Mediterranean cooking designed for convivial meals with friends.

In Pals

Vicus serves contemporary Catalan cuisine in a casual setting—the place to try Pals rice prepared with modern technique but traditional respect. Highly recommended for lunch after exploring the medieval quarter.

Restaurant Antic Casino occupies a historic building with a menu that ranges from refined appetizers (scallops with cream of leek and truffle oil) to the essential Pals rice casserole. Save room for both.

Traditional Dishes to Try

Arròs a la cassola – The signature rice dish of the Empordà, cooked in an earthenware casserole. The rice from Pals absorbs stock and flavors in a way that sets it apart from other Spanish rice preparations.

Cargols a la llauna – Snails cooked on a metal sheet over open flame, served with aioli. An acquired taste, perhaps, but deeply traditional.

Suquet de peix – A fisherman's stew that varies with the catch, thickened with picada (a paste of almonds, garlic, and parsley). Each cook has their own version.

Recuit – A fresh, soft cheese traditionally made from sheep's or goat's milk, often served with honey for dessert.

Anxoves de L'Escala – The famous salt-cured anchovies from nearby L'Escala, often served simply on bread rubbed with tomato.

Where to Stay

Ullastret itself has limited accommodation—a few vacation rentals in traditional Catalan farmhouses (masies). Most visitors base themselves in nearby coastal towns or in the larger villages of the Empordanet.

In the Empordanet Area

Peratallada, Pals, and Begur all offer charming accommodation within easy reach of Ullastret. For those who prefer to stay near the action, these villages combine historical atmosphere with good restaurants and easy access to both the medieval interior and the Costa Brava beaches.

In Begur

Hotel Aigua Blava offers exclusive accommodation with stunning sea views and direct beach access—a luxurious base for day trips to the medieval villages. High-end pricing but exceptional quality.

Hotel-Spa Classic Begur caters to couples seeking a romantic getaway, with spa facilities and intimate atmosphere. Mid-range to high-end pricing.

BYPILLOW Cluc Begur sits 100 meters from the town center, offering boutique accommodation with contemporary design. Mid-range pricing.

Practical Considerations

A car is essential for exploring the Empordanet. Public transportation exists but is limited, and the pleasure of this region lies in wandering between villages at your own pace. Base yourself somewhere with good parking—the medieval village centers don't accommodate cars—and treat each destination as a separate discovery.

Practical Information

Getting There

From Barcelona (120 km):

• By car: Take the AP-7 motorway north, exit at La Bisbal d'Empordà, then follow signs to Ullastret. Allow approximately 1 hour 30 minutes without traffic.
• By train and bus: Train from Barcelona to Flassà, then local bus. Total journey approximately 2 hours. Cost €30-40.
• By bus: Services from Barcelona Nord to La Bisbal d'Empordà, then local connection. Approximately 3 hours 45 minutes with transfers.

From Girona (30 km):

• By car: Take the C-66 toward La Bisbal d'Empordà, then follow signs to Ullastret. Approximately 35 minutes.
• By bus: Line 42 from Girona to La Bisbal, then line 20 to Ullastret. Approximately 1 hour 50 minutes. Cost €5-9.

From Girona Airport: Bus connections via Girona city and La Bisbal d'Empordà. Approximately 3 hours 25 minutes. A rental car is strongly recommended for flexibility.

Best Time to Visit

For archaeology and villages: May through October offers ideal conditions—warm enough for comfortable outdoor exploration but not oppressively hot. June and September provide the best balance of good weather and manageable crowds.

For photography: Spring (April-May) brings wildflowers to the fields around Ullastret, and the soft light flatters the ancient stones. Autumn (October-November) offers similar advantages with golden fields and harvest atmosphere.

For avoiding crowds: The medieval villages, especially Peratallada and Pals, fill with day-trippers on summer weekends. Visit on weekdays or in shoulder season to have the cobblestone streets more to yourself.

Combining with Coastal Costa Brava

Ullastret sits roughly 20 kilometers from the coast. Many visitors combine a morning at the archaeological site with an afternoon at one of the Empordà beaches. Begur's coves (Sa Riera, Aiguafreda, Sa Tuna) are particularly attractive and within easy driving distance.

Connecting to Empúries

For a complete ancient history experience, combine Ullastret with the Greco-Roman ruins at Empúries, near L'Escala. The contrast between indigenous Iberian and Greek colonial civilization illuminates both sites. Empúries was the trading partner that made Ullastret wealthy—seeing both locations on the same day creates a narrative arc spanning centuries.

Walking Routes and Natural Attractions

The countryside surrounding Ullastret invites exploration on foot. The former lake plain, now agricultural fields, can be crossed on circular walking routes that combine natural beauty with archaeological interest.

Recommended Routes

Lake and Iberian Settlement Route: A self-guided circuit starting from the archaeological site parking lot, descending through the former lake area and returning via the old Empúries road. Views of Montgrí Massif and the Empordanet reward the moderate effort.

Villages Circuit: Circular routes connect Ullastret with surrounding villages through agricultural land and oak forests. The gentle terrain suits all fitness levels.

Les Gavarres Massif: This Area of Natural Interest, classified since 1992 and covering 28,548 hectares, lies just south of Ullastret. Well-marked trails wind through oak forests and past ancient farmhouses. The hills themselves are a geological lesson, their limestone formations creating the caves and crevices that sheltered humans for millennia.

Festivals and Events

Festa Major d'Ullastret takes place each August, typically around August 10-12. Despite the village's small size, the festival follows traditional Catalan patterns: solemn mass, sardana dancing (the circular folk dance of Catalonia), havaneres (traditional sea songs), children's activities, and evening entertainment with live music. Guided visits to the Illa d'en Reixac archaeological site—not normally open to visitors—sometimes feature during the festival.

Nearby festivals in Peratallada, Pals, and other Empordanet villages follow similar patterns through the summer months. The combination of medieval settings and traditional celebrations creates experiences that feel genuinely connected to centuries of local culture.

Quick Facts

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Ullastret worth visiting?

For anyone interested in ancient history, Ullastret is essential. The Iberian archaeological site is the largest in Catalonia and offers insights into a pre-Roman civilization that left few traces elsewhere. Combined with the beautifully preserved medieval village and easy access to other Empordanet destinations like Peratallada and Pals, Ullastret rewards a full day of exploration. It's a different Costa Brava experience—inland, historical, contemplative—but no less valuable than the coastal attractions.

How do you pronounce Ullastret?

In Catalan, it's pronounced "oo-yuh-STRET" (the double-l sounds like a "y"). The stress falls on the final syllable. Locals will understand if you say "oo-LAHS-tret" with Spanish pronunciation, though the Catalan form is preferred.

What is Ullastret known for?

Ullastret is primarily known for the Poblat Ibèric, the largest Iberian archaeological site in Catalonia. This was the capital of the Indigetes confederation from the 6th century BC until the Roman conquest in 195 BC. The site includes 930 meters of fortress walls, seven defensive towers, temples, and hundreds of dwellings. The medieval village, with its Romanesque church and three lines of defensive walls, adds another layer of historical significance.

How long do you need to visit Ullastret?

The archaeological site and museum require 1.5 to 2 hours for a thorough visit. Add another hour for the medieval village. If you're combining Ullastret with nearby Peratallada, Pals, or other Empordanet villages—highly recommended—plan for a full day. The region rewards slow exploration rather than rushing between stops.

Can you visit Ullastret without a car?

Technically yes, but it's difficult. Bus connections from Girona require transfers at La Bisbal d'Empordà and run infrequently. More importantly, the pleasure of the Empordanet lies in moving freely between villages, which requires your own transportation. Renting a car in Girona or Barcelona is strongly recommended.

Is Ullastret good for children?

Children interested in history will find the archaeological site fascinating—climbing (carefully) among ancient walls and imagining life 2,500 years ago. The museum's audiovisual displays help younger visitors visualize the Iberian city. The medieval village offers similar appeal. However, this is primarily a historical destination without beaches or dedicated children's activities; families with young children might prefer combining Ullastret with a coastal visit.

What's the difference between Ullastret and Empúries?

Ullastret was an indigenous Iberian city—the capital of the Indigetes tribe who lived here before Greek and Roman colonization. Empúries was a Greek colony founded in 575 BC, later occupied by Romans. Visiting both sites on the same day reveals how indigenous and colonial civilizations coexisted and traded in ancient Catalonia. They're about 25 kilometers apart and complement each other perfectly.

When is the best time to visit the archaeological site?

Early morning or late afternoon light makes the ruins easier to interpret, as shadows define the wall foundations and street patterns. The site is exposed with little shade, so summer visits are most comfortable outside midday hours. Spring and autumn offer ideal conditions: comfortable temperatures and fewer visitors than peak summer.

This article was written by Mike Acler, Barcelona travel guide. Need to hire Barcelona travel guide for your trip?